How We Diagnose Compressor Failure in Georgetown
We test in sequence: (1) Capacitor load test — a bad capacitor mimics compressor failure exactly. (2) Contactor and voltage verification — confirm the compressor is actually receiving power. (3) Compressor winding resistance — check for open, short, or grounded windings. (4) Amp draw under load — compare to nameplate. Only after all four checks do we confirm compressor failure. This process has saved Georgetown homeowners from unnecessary $1,500–$2,800 compressor replacements dozens of times.
Compressor Failure Symptoms & Their Causes
Often a failed capacitor or contactor — the compressor is attempting to start but doesn't have the capacitance support. Not necessarily a failed compressor.
A compressor with a damaged valve or slug of liquid refrigerant — may indicate a locked rotor or liquid slugging condition.
Compressor drawing locked-rotor amperage — could be a seized compressor or a refrigerant charge problem. We test to distinguish.
If the fan runs and the compressor sounds like it's running, check refrigerant circuit before condemning the compressor.
Without a crankcase heater, refrigerant migrates into the compressor oil — a crankcase heater installation may prevent future failures.
Compressor Repair vs. Replacement Decision
Compressor replacement costs $1,400–$2,800+ including refrigerant recovery, line set flush, filter drier, evacuation, and recharge. For a system 10+ years old, this cost often approaches or exceeds half the cost of full system replacement. We'll give you the honest comparison:
- System is under 8 years old
- Uses R-410A (not R-22)
- Compressor has manufacturer warranty
- Rest of system is in good condition
- Repair cost < 40% of new system cost
- System is 12+ years old
- Uses R-22 refrigerant
- Other components are aging
- Compressor failed due to system issue (leak, overcharge)
- Repair cost > 50% of new system cost